Black Canyon of The Gunnison
There are few National Parks more unknown, yet as impressive, as Black Canyon of The Gunnison National Park. Despite receiving far fewer visitors than other ‘canyon’ parks like the Grand Canyon and Bryce Canyon, the Black Canyon has stunning scenery unlike anything in the nation. Perhaps best epitomizing the canyon is a quote from Duane Vandenbusche– author of Images of America: The Black Canyon of the Gunnison. He states, "Several canyons of the American West are longer and some are deeper, but none combines the depth, sheerness, narrowness, darkness, and dread of the Black Canyon". There is no canyon quite like the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, with some drops of over 2,000 feet in less than a quarter mile. Its sheer cliff faces give some areas of the canyon floor barely more than a half hour of sunshine a day; this is where the park’s name comes from. With dozens of overlooks and trails into the depths of the canyon, the Black Canyon is nature’s masterpiece to explore.
Within the National Park, there are no permanent trails down the canyon to the banks of the Gunnison River. Instead, there are 3 wilderness routes that can generally guide travellers to the bottom: The Gunnison Route, Tomichi Route and Warner Route. All routes require wilderness permits obtainable from the Visitor Center, and will lead you on a journey of strenuous hiking. On my second day in the park, I secured a wilderness permit for the Gunnison Route, the recommended route for first time park visitors. In about 1.5 miles, the route drops 1,800 feet and contains both rock scrambles and chains to account for sections of extreme steepness. To account for the lack of trail markers, the visitor center contains a binder of some points of interest to stay on the trail. After taking some of the photos, I was on my way into the depths of the Black Canyon.
The first challenge of the trail comes about .5 miles in where an 80 foot chain is required to descend along a steep canyon slope. Following the chain, the trail becomes largely an exposed rock scramble down to the canyon floor. Every few hundred feet I took photos of the route, hoping to use them to match my path on the way back up. As long as you are careful with your footing, the route down the canyon is mostly straightforward. The challenge is getting back out! While climbing 1,800 feet is no easy feat on its own, doing so without a marked trail is what makes this route so adventurous. Despite taking careful photos of my path down, I still had trouble retracing my steps. The ascent quickly proved to be a test of both physical endurance and mental focus. The loose rocks that made the descent manageable now became precarious obstacles, requiring careful navigation to avoid slipping. At times, I paused to look around and recalibrate my route, scanning for familiar landmarks I had noted on the way down. The photos I’d taken were helpful, but the shifting angles and light made everything look subtly different, adding an extra layer of challenge to the climb. On a few separate occasions, I hiked down a ‘false path’ for minutes before realizing and backtracking my mistakes. I recommend carefully looking upwards while hiking down the trail, making sure to record where potential confusing branches occur.
Though mentally easier, the final legs of the route were some of the most challenging. While seeing the chain yielded a sigh of relief, as I knew I was on the right path, my body was not excited for a final ascent to the canyon rim. However, after completing the chained section and a few switchbacks, I was on a rim level trail headed directly towards the visitor center. The Gunnison Route had lived up to its reputation as a challenging yet unforgettable adventure. It wasn’t just the physical effort that made it memorable—it was the raw, untamed beauty of the Black Canyon and the profound sense of connection to nature that came with exploring its depths.
For anyone seeking a true wilderness experience, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison offers an unparalleled opportunity to step off the beaten path and into one of the most awe-inspiring landscapes in the United States. The journey may be demanding, but the reward is a deeper appreciation for the rugged beauty of this hidden gem. In addition to the wilderness canyon routes, the numerous rim trails give a mindblowing perspective of the Black Canyon and give excellent photo opportunities for sunrise, sunset, the blue hour and at night. Despite receiving only about 7% the number of visitors as the Grand Canyon, the Black Canyon makes up for everything with its sheer cliffs and awe striking views.
The Black Canyon's Painted Wall is sure to amaze!